Powerful braking.

After extensive testing, TRP brings an updated cable-actuated hydraulic braking system back to the cycling market with the HY/RD Cable-Actuated Hydraulic Disc Brake, offering you a cost effective way to achieve better braking power and modulation. First, you don’t need to spring for new shift levers (which is the case with many fully-hydraulic designs), because the HY/RD is compatible with all existing cable-actuated systems. The hydraulic mechanism is located at the caliper to keep your bars tidy. Also, braking is always consistent with HY/RD’s automatic pad wear adjustment, and with pads that are compatible with Shimano M525/M515 brakes, you have no trouble finding replacements. The calipers weigh less than 200 grams and are post mount with IS hardware included.

  • Compatible with all existing cable-actuated systems
  • Hydraulic mechanism located at the caliper
  • Automatic pad wear adjustment
  • Uses pads compatible with Shimano M525/M515 brakes
  • Reviews
  • Q & A

What's in the box? Is this only one caliber + one disc rotor?

We offer this caliper with and without a rotor. Use the drop down menu to select which works best for you.

Unanswered Question

If I understand correctly, these brakes are compatible with normal Shimano/Sram road shifters (such as Ultegra 6800 or Sram Force), is that correct?

Love these brakes

  • Familiarity: I've used it several times

I installed TRP HY/RD cable-actuated hydraulic brakes on my gravel bike as replacements for a set of non-hydraulic disk brakes with only one moving caliper and what a great upgrade.
The installation and set up is incredibly easy, far easier than the old all mechanical brakes. The performance is good in all conditions and the brakes offer very good modulation with good feel. I was initially worried about how much throw I had in the brake levers from initial contact to full brake but I now believe that actually helps with the modulation and feel. I've put about 300 miles on the brakes and I highly recommend these for anyone with cable based levers looking for high performance disk brakes.

Great Brakes

  • Familiarity: I've used it several times

I am very impressed with the stopping power- easily as good as my XTRs. Easy set up with older Ultegra levers and smooth modulated 1 finger stops even on 14% grades. I got the 160 set and the rotor and an adapter for ISO to post mount was included but a post to post spacer for 160mm was not. I used the Shimano 180mm Post to Post adapter which worked out great.

Great breaks for touring

  • Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

I am running a pair of TRP HY/RD brakes on a Specialized AWOL Elite, touring/commuter/just all out fun riding machine. 3500 miles currently on this set up. 1200 miles riding PCH 1 this summer with just over 100 lbs bag weight. Let me tell you these brakes work with confidence under all situations. Even at 48 mph 14% grade coming to a complete stop (in a hurry) while touring PCH 1) These brakes defiantly saved my life. Great modulation. Like one reviewer mentioned. Use compression less brake cable housing. I used Jagwire Ripcord Brake Kit, Titanium, Hope 160mm Sawtooth Floating Rotors front and back, Avid Speed Dial 7 Levers mounted on Jones Carbon H-Bars. A great set-up for touring and we’ll all other riding. I am thinking about getting another set for my Fatback fat tire bike also with Jones H-Bars. I have had zero break maintenance at 3500 miles. Highly recommended. I did contact TRP about using these on my Jones H-Bars and they did not recommend it. They said they were designed to wrap around bars only. I did not do the install. They were installed during the bike build by a LBS. These are the second generation brakes.

Great breaks for touring

Since most road brakes are sold in pairs (front and rear) i am unsure if that is the case with these or not. Also, do these come with rotors too or just the calipers? Someone please advise, thanks!!

These come individually per wheel. Rotors are included and the 160mm come with ISO to post mount adapters but not a post to post mount spacer for the 160 rotor. They don't include cables.

Cross Bike Use

  • Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

Incredible stopping power. Comes pre-bleed, and works great with old school cable brake levers.

I would like to replace the Avid mechanical disc brakes on my tandem that has 203mm rotors. Will these work with my rotors and are they recommended to be used on tandem bikes? Thanks.

Best Answer

I can't answer as for the "recommended" or tandem use but I can say that yes the will work with 203 rotors. I'm running them on a Surly Trucker with a 203 in front and a 180 in the rear and before that ran them on a Fuji Tread with the same rotor without any issues.

Sorry forgot to add in my previous post but if you're going to use them I recommend compression less brake cable housing. It makes all of the difference on the sponginess in the brake levers.

Solid, predictable braking...

  • Familiarity: I've used it several times

for an unpredictable world. These breaks were the main reason I built a bike instead of bying one. I heard great things about TRP and wanted them on my CX/commuter. I got them and couldn't be happier. This isn't a high end hydraulic brake. It's an affordable hybrid that will do exactly what a rider like I need it to do: stop.
Solid, consistent closure on the rotor and a good action. They look to be easily maintained, though I haven't touched them yet. Set screws are accessible and the cable actuator can be manipulated by hand.
They stop under any circumstances. In city riding or even on a busy urban path, they're necessary. Traffic doesn't always respect bikers and in a confrontation - I'm not an odds maker - but the biker will always lose.
On the trail, I face walkers, walkers with strollers, walkers with walkers, couples, couples with strollers, joggers (yawging?), other bikers, rollerbladers and every other manner of lomomotion you can think of. It's a two way path so I am constantly setting myself up to pass or hold. With brakes like these, I don't have to worry about a collision, even if I'm caught off guard.

Nice review. Inspires confidence. You still like them now after another month of riding?

Scott S, I love them. I'm still a novice roadie so take my review for what it's worth. but i did do a 2700 ft climb the other day with a 2700 foot drop on the other side (over a few miles) and the brakes were key to my emotional stability. I could ease them on/off to control my acceleration and pulse them as needed to keep my speed under 40 (or what i like to call the "yellow river of fear speed").
Also have stopped on a dime in traffice situations where a little less stopping power might've put me on or through someone's windhsield.
So far, i've had zero maintenance. I think this is pretty surprising. The cables have surely stretched a bit, but I am still enjoying excellent braking power and responsiveness. About 500 miles in.

Using for cross

  • Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

Seem like they can modulate well. Just wish they were a little bit lighter.

is there a front and rear? or they will work on either

They're identical. No dedicated front/rear construction.

old levers/new tricks

  • Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

I had a perfectly good Di2 10spd shifter set looking to mate to some disc brakes for my cx bike and I went with these brakes on both of my CX bikes - one set on the Di2 levers, the other on a set of '12 SRAM Red levers. The brakes worked great with both setups and served not only as cx racing brakes but a winter's worth of slush training - no problems with road salt making the pistons or cable sticky, nor did I ever encounter any overheating despite trying to do so. I'm a geek for setting up the brakes such that they engage evenly and exactly where in the lever stroke that I want them to, and I was able to get these to be just_like_I_like them to be.

Jason, any tricks to the setup? Any pointers?

Andrew - Setup is pretty straight forward - but do yourself the favor and use compressionless brake housing.

Thanks for the detailed information. Are they still meeting your expectations? Any issues with big-@$$ downhill fading?

Are these the new 2015 model or the originals? The photo of the black caliper looks to be the original, while the silver looks to be the second generation.

Best Answer

These are selling as fast as TRP can make them and as fast as we can get them. We won't have any of the older models because our stock has turned very quickly on these.

Sometimes the image doesn't get updated if the vendor doesn't provide new images or change part numbers.

Air in brakes? Mineral Oil Bleed Kit

  • Familiarity: I've used it once or twice and have initial impressions

When the call arises and you think you have air in your HYRD brakes you should have on hand a bleed kit with TRP approved mineral oil whcih is compatible with these brakes. Note: Do not use DOT 5.1 brake fluid with these brakes.

As of this review Competitive Cyclist did not sell Tektro bleed kits so here is the link to where you can purchase one


You will also find a helpful instructional video from TRP on:

"How To Bleed TRP HY/RD Brakes"


Read the Tech Bulletin

  • Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

I just found there is a Technical Bulletin on the TRP HYRD Disc Brakes.


HYRD TRP owners who received and have these installed on their bikes starting from June 01, 2013 to the current date should check the adjustment of their brakes! Brakes improperly adjusted are potentially dangerous.


"The HYRD brake system is an open hydraulic brake designed for use on single rider bicycles. The purpose of the open hydraulic system is to allow the pistons to compensate for pad wear. Each time the brake is released, the piston opens up the reservoir, allowing more oil into the caliper if needed. Only a properly set-up brake will allow the piston to retract fully ensuring that your brakes can account for worn pads.

To check if your brakes have been set-up and are operating correctly, examine the Lock Knob feature next to the cable actuator arm. If the Lock Knob can be threaded into arm, then this means the actuator arm is in the correct position and the hydraulic system is open. If the Lock Knob will NOT thread into the actuator arm or is very difficult, this means that the actuator arm is preventing the piston

from returning fully and has closed off the reservoir port. This prevents the brake to compensate for pad wear.

To remedy this - follow the cable installation and adjustment instructions in the HYRD Owner?s Manual. DO NOT RIDE A BIKE WITH A BRAKE IN THIS CONDITION IT COULD CREATE A POTENTIALLY DANGEROUS SITUATION, PARTICULARLY WITH WORN PADS. The barrel adjuster is intended to fine tune cable tension to take up cable slack that some people find difficult to remove when installing the cable. The barrel adjuster has a 1.5 turn limit before the system is closed off. When using the barrel adjuster, check that the Lock Knob will still thread into the actuator arm (with a brake lever in the released state.)"

It's good that this warning is posted here, but TRP have long since redesigned the caliper to address the issue. Retailers are not selling the older caliper.

Be Prepared-Disc Brakes Squeal When Wet

  • Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

August 2014 Update:

Replace TRP disc Pads with SwissStop 15 disc pads.

Purchase SwissStop Brake Silencer at Amazon

(Competitive does not sell this.)

Results: All squealing eliminated in all conditions, and maximum braking power realized.)


I just recently moved from traditional road bike brakes to the TRP cable acutated hydraulic brakes. I like the disc brakes but I was unaware that disc brakes tend to squeal and lose their effectiveness when wet or if they get contaminated with dirt or other foreign substances. The remedy is to first clean both the rotors and the disc pads themselves with isopropyl alcohol and then use a paste called Squealout to minimize and delay future squealing. You can purchase Squealout directly from Amazon


(Competitive unfortunately does not carry this product as of this review), or you can go directly to www.squealout.com

For instructions as to how to clean and apply this paste to disc brakes go to this Youtube instructional video.