Great moderate shoe, with one downside
- Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer
- Fit: Runs small
I got these shoes after reading some of the reviews here and I do love them. They are one of the best fitting shoes I’ve found for my semi wide asymmetrical foot. Be aware they do run a bit smaller than other models. In the instincts I am around a 41/41.5 and in these I am a 42. If you have instincts, I’d order these at least a half size larger than those.
As others have mentioned, I’d consider these a moderate/flat shoe. They pretty much immediately lose their downturn after the first time you climb in them. I don’t mind that because I actually prefer flatter shoes, and it makes them pretty good for slab. However the one downside to this is for whatever reason, the stiffness doesn’t really seem to last in the soles. After just a couple months there is barely any support in the sole. Recently on a relatively short Multipitch with hanging belays my feet were absolutely killing me after just a couple pitches. That being said, they are still a great allrounder, but if you’re wanting these for longer climbs I’d look elsewhere. They edge really well, and the xs edge rubber provides a nice balance of stickiness and durability. I mainly use these on granite climbs ranging from slab to vertical, and for that purpose they are wonderful. I like them enough and they fit my foot perfectly that I’ve bought a second pair but I’m considering exploring other options now just because of the sole stiffness durability.