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Scarpa - Mago Climbing Shoe

Scarpa Mago Climbing Shoe

30% Off
$136.46 - $147.96 Original price:$194.95
Changing the size selection, or changing the selected color after selecting a size, may change the associated price

Item #SCR007K

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California Proposition 65

Warning:

Cancer and Reproductive Harm - P65Warnings.ca.gov

Tech Specs

Upper Material:
suede (1.8mm), microsuede
Closure:
lace
Midsole:
TPS insert
Rubber:
Vibram XS Grip2 (3.5mm)
Last:
FH (aggressive)
Profile:
downturned
Asymmetrical Curvature:
high
Claimed Weight:
[single, size 40] 7.6oz
Recommended Use:
bouldering, sport climbing
Manufacturer Warranty:
1 year

The classic is back.

Lace up the Mago Climbing Shoe as you get ready to send your latest project. Scarpa designed these shoes with Vibram XS Grip2 rubber so that you can weight your feet on those dime edges while gracefully clipping a quickdraw. The asymmetric shape assists with precise footwork, allowing you to pin your foot on tiny footholds with efficiency. For lasting comfort and support, the suede and microsuede upper is form fitting to allow the shoes to fit your feet easily once broken in.

  • An aggressive shoe for steep routes that demand performance
  • Asymmetric downturn ideal for overhung, technical climbs
  • Vibram XS Grip2 rubber is sticky on dime edges and tiny crystals
  • Suede and microsuede upper provides durable, form fitting comfort
  • Lace up style allows you to customize compression where it's needed

Precision Edging

  • Familiarity: I've used it several times

Giving the Mago 2/5 stars is like giving the Testarossa 2/5...a legendary shoe and the Mago is every bit the equal (the guy never climbed in them). The Mago is even more powerful on small edges than the Testarossa and the toe is better for hooking (rubber patch rather than laces). Heel is fine, albeit similar to the old Testarossa heel. It will do the job but other shoes will be the choice for a route with beta demanding state of the art heel hooking which is rare on the vertical edges this shoe excels on. Sized same as old Testarossas/Skwammas, 42.5...this is not a shoe for all day edging comfort. Get a comfy pair of Boostics for that.

Great toe, okay heel

  • Familiarity: I've used it several times

These are the most powerful climbing shoes I've owned when it comes to the toe. If you're a climber in need of confidence on small, vertical edges, the toe support on these things can expand your reach by a centimeter or so compared to the much loved scarpa instincts. I sized these the same as I did my instinct laces (41; my street shoe is US 9.5). As for the heel... I have to agree with Mark P. that the deadspace combined with very soft rubber make the heels feel baggy, making it a suboptimal choice for compression style boulder problems given the price tag of the shoe. That said, I love the Magos for hard sport and trad climbing where I don't depend on precision heel hooking as much and can revel in the extra centimeter the powerful toe seems to add to my reach.

William,

Thanks for the great review! Insights such as this really help narrow down best options for others. Feel free to get in contact if you have any questions!

So much potential...

  • Familiarity: I returned this product before using it

The Scarpa TPS insert in the Boostic and subsequently updated Mago is responsible for one of the best edging platforms in modern climbing shoes. I've got three pairs of Boostics, and even after years of use, am still regularly amazed at just what these shoes are able to actually stand on. So I was pretty excited at the prospect of the new Mago- same brilliant edging, but with a more flexible split-midsole (the Boostic has a full sole), and laces down to the toe, portending an even more precise fit than the velcro model. However, it was with great dismay that I first tried on my recently-arrived Magos. Scarpa apparently either went back in time to the original Booster design, or took notes from contemporary clown footwear to come up with the Mago heel. It's probably the worst fitting heel I've tried on, and I've tried on _a lot_ of them. Like a full half inch of bagged-out dead space. It's crazy. The cruel irony is that the forefoot feels amazing, the construction is high quality, and they look really cool. I thought super-baggy, over-tensioned heels was the sole province of 5.10, but apparently Scarpa wanted to get in on the game. It's a shame, because with a better heel, this would be a contender for the best hard-sport shoe out there.

Mark when you say bagged out, do you mean dead space directly behind your heel or is it just extremely wide and leaving space on the sides? It's a shame they screwed this up because the instinct/drag/chimera heel are all amazing.

I have not tried on the updated Mago but I have used many pairs of the original Mago. With regards to the original, I mostly agree with Mark's comment. However, I would say that *in spite of* the heel problem this shoe is still amazing. I had hoped that the updated model, which I have heard has a better heel and is slightly lower volume, will fix these issues but it sounds like not - though I'll have to try it on for myself to see how it fits me. And Nick, to answer your question (I can't speak for Mark), the dead space is on either side of the heel - not directly under foot or in the back. It may slightly affect technical heel-hooking, but the time I really notice it being a problem is when I try to stand on a tiny foot hold with my heel (instead of forefoot - usually when either resting or doing a technical high step/rockover move): The dead space can result in the rubber of the heel compressing/rolling over to the side which makes moves like this feel insecure.

The dead space is directly behind the heel for me-

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ALL SCARPA NON-PLASTIC FOOTWEAR USES EUROPEAN SIZING
*1 EU whole size = 6.6mm = 0.26in
*1 US whole size = 8.4mm = 0.33in
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more EU sizes provides a better, more precise fit for your intended use

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Boot Sole Lengths
Mondo Size22.5 / 23.023.5 / 24.024.5 / 25.025.5 / 26.026.5 / 27.027.5 / 28.028.5 / 29.029.5 / 30.030.5 / 31.0
F1, F1 Race, F1 Carbon 268mm 276mm 285mm 292mm 301mm 310mm 318mm 326mm 334mm
Mondo Size22.5 / 23.023.5 / 24.024.5 / 25.025.5 / 26.026.5 / 27.027.5 / 28.028.5 / 29.029.5 / 30.030.5 / 31.031.5 / 32.0
Maestrale, Gea 271mm 280mm 288mm 297mm 306mm 314mm 322mm 331mm 340mm 348mm
Mondo Size23.5 / 24.024.5 / 25.025.5 / 26.026.5 / 27.027.5 / 28.028.5 / 29.029.5 / 30.0
Alien 262mm 271mm 279mm 287mm 296mm 305mm 313mm
Mondo Size21.5 / 22.022.5 / 23.023.5 / 24.024.5 / 25.025.5 / 26.026.5 / 27.027.5 / 28.028.5 / 29.029.5 / 30.030.5 / 31.0
Freedom 257mm 267mm 277mm 287mm 297mm 307mm 317mm 327mm 337mm 347mm
Mondo Size22.5 / 23.023.5 / 24.024.5 / 25.025.5 / 26.026.5 / 27.027.5 / 28.028.5 / 29.029.5 / 30.030.5 / 31.0
T1 283mm 292mm 300mm 309mm 318mm 327mm 335mm 343mm 351mm
Mondo Size22.5 / 23.023.5 / 24.024.5 / 25.025.5 / 26.026.5 / 27.027.5 / 28.028.5 / 29.029.5 / 30.0
TX Comp 275mm 283mm 291mm 299mm 307mm 316mm 325mm 333mm
Mondo Size21.5 / 22.022.5 / 23.023.5 / 24.024.5 / 25.025.5 / 26.026.5 / 27.027.5 / 28.028.5 / 29.029.5 / 30.030.5 / 31.031.5 / 32.0
T2 Eco, T4 277mm 284mm 291mm 299mm 307mm 315mm 324mm 332mm 341mm 350mm 358mm