Black DiamondExpress Ice Screws

Get fast, solid ice protection with the Black Diamond Express Ice Screws.

The Black Diamond Express Ice Screws' unique taper reduces ice fracturing and eases placements. A large crank knob takes less fine motor skills to use than a small one, so you can place the Express Ice Screw when you're pumped like crazy and really need it. Black Diamond uses a stainless steel hanger to eliminate rusting and decrease sun-induced melt-out. Two carabiner holes make sketchy hanging belays easy to set up.

  • Dual-clip in points make belays much easier to build
  • Tapered design for easier placements
  • Reviews
  • Q & A

Love it!

  • Familiarity: I've used it several times

Great for abalakov systems (I think the name is V-thread anchor?) in the glacier. It goes in smooth and easy and you can recover it really fast, which is perfect when hanging off an ice wall. Sturdy construction and sharpened as hell. Worth it every penny. Have not tried other brands but I don't think I need to. Will definitely get a couple more BD screws in different sizes

Tried & True, Ice Screw!

  • Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

The work-horse of ice screws and easy to insert in a pinch with the independently spinning capabilities of the screw handle.

Photo below take in Maple Canyon: hit me up for Ice Condition Reports in Utah/Wyoming, or I'll bump into you out there!

Tried & True, Ice Screw!

Worth every penny

  • Familiarity: I've used it once or twice and have initial impressions

These are my first screws, so I don't have much to compare them to, but have had no problems with them so far. Quick to plug and pretty light. Used them for a top rope anchor and they were solid.

Worth every penny

Cue Metallica Music

  • Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

Probably the scariest tool I carry with me while skiing in glacial terrain. Left on my harness for easy access but rarely used. The most likely tool to stab you in a bad crash and arguably the most important tool to save your life if one was to fall in a crevasse.

In my experience 8 out of 10 times I have used this tool as a drill rather than a screw. Two holes drilled as a V into a solid block of ice make for a solid anchor in the ice to slip your rope through. (we hope) Just don't tell your mom you trusted frozen water with your life.

Cue Metallica Music

Excellent screws

  • Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

Have a whole rack of them. They whistle right in, are lightweight, hold an edge well...really what more do you want?

These are amazing

  • Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

I've tried a bunch of different screws when out with friends - I always end up wanting to use mine (these).

These are great at setting, and I can often get them to set in the first turn or two, where most others I need to get 3-5 before they are in.

They have a great spinner (but definitely make sure to close it when you are done!), and drive super easily and quickly, which is a huge relief when you are pumped silly.

The color coding is handy, and so are the dual attachment points. I only wish there was an 'ultralight' version like petzl makes for these.

Screwing up

Screwing up

Good screw

  • Familiarity: I've used it several times

Put in about 10 days on the sharp end this winter using these screws. I never fell on one or had to rest on one mid-climb, but I nevertheless felt confident in my placements in solid ice and could feel the screws "talking" back to me if the ice was crap or if there were air pockets.

Whorehouse hose, Eureka, CO

Whorehouse hose, Eureka, CO

Awesome picture Bowen!!!



I selected this image to feature on the Community Hub at the bottom of the Backcountry.com homepage! Congrats on being utterly GOATWORTHY !!

wocao haodiao

What harness is that? Do you like it?

Express Ice screws then Pickets

Big drop below (few thousand vert below what you see), exposed glacial ice then soft wet snow, combo of BD express ice screws and then MSR pickets for protection...

Express Ice screws then Pickets

Are you sure this picture wasn't taken on Mt. Gordon Lyon on a Saturday afternoon after a couple of brewskis at the Afterglow?

How many ice screws would you carry with you on a trip like this? And which lengths would you take?

for a running belay such as that, I would have 3-4 Ice Screws (usually 4), one - 22cm (for v-threads) and 3 - 13cm's

Are the 16cm screws expected to be back...

Are the 16cm screws expected to be back in stock any time soon? Thanks!

We do have a order pending with our buddies down the street at BD but I honestly don't expect it in until probably around the first week of April.

Good pro for a questionable activity

several screws on a short vertical pitch.

Good pro for a questionable activity

Super fast. Super sharp

    These screws are the workhorse on my rack--sure, I have a couple grivel screws that I absolutely love, and I think there's even a Petzl Laser Sonic kicking around--but for most of my placements, I'm sinking in BD Express screws.



    I find that while they don't place as quickly as the Grivel screws, they rack much more conveniently on your harness, and the multiple clip-in points make them an ideal piece for anchors. They're solidly built, start fast in hard ice, and easy to see sizes (I just think of them as camalot sizes) Make sure to flip the grinder knob down, as having your rope catch on it can be disastrous.

    Ice ice, baby

    • Familiarity: I've used it several times

    Just peachy for super fast screwing. The color-coded crank nobs were what sold me on them. They are ultra easy to place and only really need to be sharpened once every ice season. I wouldn't want to take a fall on them, but that goes for anything screwed into ice. It's very important to use protection.

    Ice ice, baby

    Just remember to flip the grinder back down after you sink the screw...

    Bombers

    • Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

    I climb with a very mixed rack of different brands, and BD stands out like a happy thumb. Lighter than the grivels for sure. Plus I dig the double biner access! Bites, screws fast, does everything you look for in a screw!

    Looking for a good screw?

    • Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

    Look no further. I love these. They start way fast and the little knob on the hanger makes getting them in a breeze. I like these a lot because they rack nicely on your harness. They go on and off ice clippers very easily, which is crucial when you are getting pumped and every fumbled move only adds to your pump. These are just great screws

    Fab ice screws

    • Familiarity: I've used it several times

    These are superb. Recommend highly! And buying through this store made for smooth shopping.

    The best out there!

      I use a full rack of these for ice climbing, and I always carry a couple of these for glacier travels. They are solid, easy to place, durable and when climbing with friends with other screws we always end up with the BDs. Only shortcomming is when placing in some concave "holes" where the relatively long and ridgid arm hits the surrounding ice before the screw is all in. Therfore I'd reccomend to bring one or two grivel 360s or similar in addition to the BDs.

      Frankenstein cliff

      Frankenstein cliff

      Frankenstein Cliff

      Frankenstein Cliff