Single rope device for crags and gyms.
Black Diamond worked toward pure functionality and simplicity when they cut the ATC in half and created the ATC-Sport Belay Device. Made for sport cragging, the ATC-Sport Belay Device provides a solid catch thanks to a deep V-shaped groove on the brake-hand side.
- Single-rope tube device
- Dual friction modes
All the Modern Sport Climber needs
- Familiarity: I've used it several times
I often see climbers at the gym with dual channel belay devices capable of belaying a second. When I started asking people why they owned them, the answer was always some variation of the ability to rappel or do multi-pitch, regardless of if they currently did it or had plans to. This seems like the result of gear shop employees trying to up-sell their patrons. If you know you're going to be doing a lot of rapelling and multi-pitch, this device will not satisfy you. However, If you primarily climb single pitch in the gym, or otuside, this device is perfect. The modern ethic for cleaning sport routes is shifting to lowering, at least in many locations east of the Mississippi. Additionally, no one tells you this, but you can absolutely belay a second on multi-pitch with a single channel device using a redirect. It's not optimal, but if you go on a multi-pitch adventure, your belay device won't let you down.
If you're looking to have the best belay device, and only buy one once, get the DMM pivot. If you want to spend a little less money, get an ATC-XP Guide. But the ATC sport is all that most climbers need, and it works perfectly. There is no real reason for most climbers to spend more.