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  • RockShox - Reverb Stealth (B1) Dropper Seatpost - Right Lever
RockShox - Reverb Stealth (B1) Dropper Seatpost

RockShox Reverb Stealth (B1) Dropper Seatpost

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$217.84 $471.00

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    • Right Lever, 30.9x480mm/170mm travel
      sale $217.84

    Tech Specs

    [shaft] 3D forged 7050 aluminum, [head] forged 7050 aluminum
    30.9 mm, 31.6 mm, 34.9 mm
    340 mm, 390 mm, 440 mm, 480 mm
    0 mm
    100 mm, 125 mm, 150 mm, 170 mm
    Claimed Weight:
    [30.9x340mm/100mm travel] 560 g
    Recommended Use:
    mountain bike
    Manufacturer Warranty:
    2 years

    Reverb Stealth (B1) Dropper Seatpost

    Don’t make the mistake of thinking the Rock Shox Reverb Stealth (B1) Dropper Seatpost has been sitting comfortably for all of these years, content to rely on its name and impressive legacy rather than change with the times. While you’ve been barreling through rock gardens and earning a few new scars on your old Reverb, RockShox has been quietly overhauling the Reverb Stealth’s design. This year, it unleashes some serious changes like travel-specific post lengths and a wider range of squish options to bring it up to speed with the discipline-bending enduro monsters multiplying by the day on the trails.

    The expanded post lengths and travel options are good news for taller riders who find the range offered by traditional lengths to be slightly lacking on either end of the spectrum. RockShox didn’t just adjust sizing for taller riders, though. Gleaming new internals stand at the ready inside the seatpost, complete with SKF internal seals keeping the grit out as well as rearranged bushings. The repositioned bushings mean that slacker seatposts won’t interrupt travel anymore, and you’ll experience a smooth glide, rather than a jump, every time you engage the remote.

    RockShox couldn’t find room to improve the already impressive cable routing on the Reverb, and the clean design remains reassuringly unchanged for this model. Free of excess cables and complicated fitting, the Stealth’s cable runs subtly through the internal seatpost routing space most modern frames are now built with, but a mechanic can adapt an older frame by carefully drilling a hole. Mount the hydraulic actuator on either side of the bars, and in exchange for a few regular bleedings, you’ll enjoy supple actuation ride after ride.

    • Iconic dropper post features improved enduro functionality
    • Increased travel and size range accommodates taller riders
    • Refreshed internals work better with slack geometry
    • Stealth routing provides clean, hassle-free integration
    • Enjoy smooth, precise adjustments with hydraulic actuation


      this is for the C1 but might help you get in the correct ball park for the b1


      Gets your seat out of the way!

      • Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

      I wish I went with a 170mm, but this is my third reverb and I have been loving it. Zero issues after months of riding.

      Reverb FTW

      • Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

      This is the only dropper worth running. I know a lot of people will disagree with me, but I love it. Being a fully hydraulic system, it makes tear down and rebuild at home (or your LBS) not only possible, (unlike any other post out there) but super simple once you've done it once or twice. Other posts have a nitrogen charge, which means your LBS will have to send it back (every season) to whichever manufacturer it came from and you won't see it for two weeks or so, and end up paying the same amount you would to have your local dudes just do your Reverb in house in a day or two.

      Great so far

      • Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

      I have used it for a full season with no problems... although I make sure to store the dropper extended.

      Honestly not a fan

      • Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

      I switched to a Fox transfer after having to have my reverb rebuilt 2 times. It's a great dropper post, but is something that requires frequent and unnecessary maintenance. Also doesn't perform well if you ever ride in colder weather.

      Dude! I am just about to do the exact same thing. Costs almost the same to rebuild as it does to buy a brand new one. Its never made sense to me. I have the same issues in the cold too. Bleeding it when the season changes helps, but it shouldn't need so much attention. How do you like the fox transfer? That's what I am looking to get

      Expensive and becoming even MORE so

      • Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

      Coming up on my second winter with this post and not looking forward to it. The plunger is wholly NOT ergonomically correct and cannot be made better by adjusting the position of it. Yeah, I feel bad having to shell-out another Hundred bucks for the lever that it should have come with; but, on longer rides when your hands begin to cramp, that plunger just continues to get worse and worse. That said, it works great on shorter rides (under 2 hours) in the heat of summer! And I like the way it snaps / clicks when it tops out, letting you know that it has returned to the full-up position. In the winter however, when your hands get fatigued and cold, forget it! Because the hydraulic oil gets more viscus as the mercury drops, that plunger gets even harder to actuate. So, I bought the lever.

      The post comes with 5 weight oil which was a disaster last winter. I live in Texas, so I have enjoyed riding year round, only last winter was my first with this post. We all know that the temperature drops as we climb and somewhere around 45 degrees F the post gets stuck in the down position, because the oil becomes too thick to move anymore. This even happened to me in Crested Butte, CO in July, when it rained at around 11,000 feet and the temps plummeted. I decided to do a total rebuild on the post, installing both 2.5 weight oil and the one-by, lever-style actuator. I will update this after I have given it the proper amount of testing / riding in a variety of temperatures and altitudes. Fingers-crossed!

      High maintenance

      • Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

      I've had this post for a little over a year now and it works really well when it works. The downside is over the last year it has had to been rebuilt three times. the hydraulic system in it is very finicky. Probably going to look into a different option next time it happens. Having it rebuilt is very expensive.

      POS remote and hydraulic bleeding

      • Familiarity: I've used it several times

      Disappointing! The remote is a shitty push button that mounts on the top of the bar. If you're like 99% of the Mountain bike world, you probably want a shifter orientation, mounted under the left hand bar. In order to get a similar shifter orientation, you have to buy the right handed remote and mount it upside down on the left hand side. WTF? Stupid. Then the use of hydraulic instead of cable is another bonehead option. I'm forced to use it with my Wreckoning frame but I'm seriously thinking about going the Shim route and going back to a real dropper post 9point8 is the best I've ever used.

      Great rebound

      • Familiarity: I've used it several times

      The Reverb Stealth B1 has been great so far. The is my second Reverb and it seems smoother than the prior generation. It’s rebound is great and it doesn’t have any sagging. I never had issues with my first Reverb so I’m cautiously optimistic with the newer model.

      3 for now

      • Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

      This will be the second RockShox Reverb that I've worked with up to now and the first one was solid through about the first 1,000 miles when the bottom O-Ring failed and dumped hydraulic fluid into the bottom bracket area of the frame I was running at the time.

      I've seen that a few internal changes have been made on the B1 version for better or for worse. I've heard of there being less internal problems occurring over time for these changes and that has yet to be seen and while it has worked pretty well so far it doesn't seem to have the return or collapse speed like the previous version. Also, since there is a 1x remote out now from SRAM (which looks awesome) the previous remote just needs to get phased out as I can place it well but the plunger type shape is cumbersome.

      Will try to get the 1x remote eventually when it is released on its own for improvement and keep an eye on the internals but OK so far..

      Poor reliability

      • Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

      I've had two of these posts. One had worked, the other stopped functioning after a couple of months. SRAM would not fix under warranty stating the lever must have been damaged in a fall (interesting, there's no scratches on it to support their claim), so also not impressed with customer support. There's other dropper posts out there, such as Thomson that have given me better reliability.

      The B1 seems solid so far

      • Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

      I've owned multiple first generation Reverb Stealth posts and I had issues with one of those posts "sagging" in the extended position.

      On my more recent mountain bike purchases I've gone with this 2nd generation Reverb, the B1. It has improved seals and better reliability. So far I've had no issues with this version. At one point it started to get a little slow to return and thought I may have felt some "sagging" in the travel, but I bled the post and made sure the air pressure was at 250lbs. psi and it was back to working like brand new. It does not seem to have the same problems my original Reverb did.

      Critical advice:

      Store your bike with the dropper post extended

      Never pick up your bike by the saddle if the dropper post is compressed.

      When the dropper post is compressed, especially the Reverb, there is a lot of pressure on the internal floating piston and seals. The two measures above will prolong the life of seals and the IFP.

      Problems after 5 months

      • Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

      Seat post (b1) started seizing on a ride in an awkward position.
      Noticed some minor scratches on it, may be contributing, not sure yet. Bled it last night and everything seemed great again, but today after a ride it became really slow again to pop up. Will update after LBS looks at it tomorrow. Maybe have 60-80 hours on it.

      Also I have the 170mm, really need a 200mm at 6'5".

      Simple an smooth

      • Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

      The new improvements to the Reverb might not be notable on first glance, but the stiffer and more durable post will show why the changes were made over time. Loving mine so far. I appreciate that these come with the bleed kit for home maintenance.

      game changer

      • Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

      If you dont have one, you need to get one. If you ride bikes trails all the time this will make the ups to downs and the downs to ups a breeze. i've had multiple reverbs and have yet to have a bad one and I take it through the paces.

      Love it!

        Coming from a Specialized Command post, I love my Reverb! It's smooth and very consistent - you always know how it will work. I know some people have complained about its reliability, but after using mine consistently since March, I've had zero issues. I should note I have the original Reverb. The newer B1 model should be even better.

        Awesome Dropper

        • Familiarity: I've used it several times

        Love this dropper! I've only had it for a couple of months, so long-term results are TBD, but as of now it's been super solid and responsive.

        great now, long term reliability TBD

        • Familiarity: I've used it several times

        I threw out my last Reverb because it needed a full rebuild including the top cap, which was quoted at $250, and the videos online to show how to do it were nearly an hour long. I had it for 2 years with no services others than bleeding. This one feels a bit smoother, the install / bleed kit is nice, but only time will tell if it holds up and at the point if it is easy to rebuild as something like the LEV (which is as easy as it gets)