Mammut Bionic HMS Carabiner

Versatility at its finest.

The Mammut Bionic HMS Carabiner will exceed your expectations no matter what you're climbing, whether it's rock, ice, or a bit of both. I-Beam technology uses a special high-precision hot forging method that keeps this biner surprisingly light, despite its conveniently oversized frame. A Twistlock mechanism makes sure your belay is always locked, and a keylock nose lets you unclip  without a hassle. Mammut designed the Bionic with a large arc radius that accommodates any safety device or knot without bulking.

  • Hot-forged I-Beam aluminum
  • Twistlock mechanism
  • Keylock nose
  • Reviews
  • Q & A

Perfect with the Smart Alpine

  • Familiarity: I've used it several times

The screw gate action is smooth and it works as expected with the Mammut Smart Alpine. No complaints.

Pain to open

  • Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

I got two of these to set up top rope anchors. They certainly get the job done, but I got tired of fumbling around with the twist lock while setting up the master point. The problem solved itself when a buddy was setting up one day and he fumbled one of the two biners into a 20m fall onto the rocks next to me. Retired that one immediately and bought different biners to replace both of them.

Get the screwgate version!

    These are great, light lockers that work really well with the Smart Alpine device, but I didn't like the feel of the twistlock on these. It was a bit cumbersome and awkward to operate one handed, and it's not likely I'd be able to do it when pumped. The BD Rocklock is a faaaar nicer twistlock, IMHO. I'd totally recommend these carabiners in the screwgate version!

    Perfectly paired with Mammut's Smart.

      I bought this carabiner for my Smart Alpine Belay Device because they're as perfect as PB & J. The Carabiner's head is large enough to accommodate the Smart's big size, and the bottom tapers down to prevent cross-loading. An I-beam construction keeps the weight down, but there's a standard amount of metal where the rope rubs to reduce wear. The twist lock is super secure, and the keylock nose doesn't snag on my rope when I'm off rappel or my climber is off belay.

      Works well but not my ideal

      • Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

      I bought this on an impulse to try out the twist lock. The idea was to put in on my direct device for sport cleaning. I thought it would be a great one hand solution, but found it difficult to operate that way. That said, it is very secure and does what its supposed to do. The spring is nice and stiff on the closure.