DMMAlpha Trad Carabiner - 5-Pack

In a world of carabiners, this one is Alpha.

Just because DMM designed its Alpha Trad Carabiner - 5-Pack specifically for trad climbing doesn't mean that you won't appreciate it on sport or ice. Its I-Beam construction makes this carabiner surprisingly light for how strong it is, and a clean nose covers the wire gate for snag-free unclipping. A deep rope basket keeps the rope oriented in the biner's ideal spot, and a grippy spine helps you clip efficiently and effectively so you can climb on without a worry.

  • I-Beam construction
  • Full-size wire gate with clean nose
  • Deep rope basket
  • Grippy spine
  • Reviews
  • Q & A

Superb Racking Biners or "My Biner Envy"

  • Familiarity: I've used it several times

I racked all my cams on either Photon Wires or Nano 22s, then my climbing partner shows up with some new pieces this season-- he had half a rack get corroded by vicious garage moisture-- and his C4s were racked with Alpha Trad biners. Cue my biner envy:

Wow. These things are MADE for perfect racking! The shape and snag-free nose makes them easy to handle while keeping the bulk down on your gear loops. They weight to strength ratio is textbook awesome and the construction is typical bomber DMM quality. In sum: if I could do it all over I'd rack with these puppies. DMM continues to impress me.

Best I've used

  • Familiarity: I've used it several times

These are now my favorite biner- they stay in your hand while clipping, super size to weight ratio, Work well in the alpine while wearing gloves, not much of a weigh penalty for your summer rack. Snagless nose is fantastic.
I think they are slightly better then the Wild Country Heliums (my old favorite) because of the shape (easier gripping). Either one is heads or tails above the rest.

alpha trad vs helium wc

  • Familiarity: I've used it several times

I like this product but compare to helium wc it has somewhat worse handling.

Great racking biners

  • Familiarity: I've used it several times

I love these for racking cams. I like the Alpha Wire more than any other clean nose biner save for the Shields, but sadly DMM doesn't make multi-colored Shields, so I use these as my fall-back.

Great racking biners