In the world of cutting-edge multipitch routes and hard onsights, every extra ounce counts against you. Shave weight from your rack by swapping in the DMM Alpha Light Carabiner 5-Pack. Weighing in at a featherlight 0.98 ounces a piece, these wire-gates utilize an I-beam construction for exceptional strength, a large gate opening for easy clipping, and a grooved pattern for improved handling characteristics.

  • Wire gate biner weighs in at a featherlight 0.98 ounces while maintaining exceptional strength
  • Clean nose profile and the wide gate opening reduce snagging and make for easy clipping
  • Kinked back-bone shape and the grooved pattern on the outside of the biner improve handling and grip
  • Deep rope basket and a generous 8.5mm rope radius enhance safety
  • Reviews
  • Q & A

Perfect. My favorite for trad draws.

  • Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

I have been using a bunch of the DMM Alpha trad carabiners for the rope end of my quickdraws and trad draws, before I knew about these. The Alpha light is basically identical to the Alpha trad, except smaller. These are pricey, but otherwise they're pretty much perfect.

I currently like to use a small Petzl Ange for the gear-end of my draw, and this DMM alpha light for the rope end. No particular reason except that's what I started doing when I was using the alpha trad, and the ange was slightly lighter, and I like to standardize my gear to keep things simple.

Unanswered Question will you guys start carrying these in singles? I like to use just the grey ones for the rope-end of my draws, not random colors (I reserve colors for my racking carabiners).

If you start carrying them in singles, I'll buy them. Otherwise I'll have to continue buying them elsewhere.


  • Familiarity: I've used it several times

Perfect--light and easy to handle

DMM Alpha Light Details

This carabiner took years to was released over a year late because the design was so complicated. Hear the story behind the design and see the features.

Alpha Light - Awesome

  • Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

I absolutely love these biners. They are perfect for trad racks: racking cams on your harness and for the biners on your runners. Before I bought these I checked out some of the other small and light wiregates on the market. There are others out there that are a gram or two lighter, but these ones handle the best. The bent spine allows them to open up a touch wider other small biners which makes clipping the rope through them easy and they just feel good in your hands. They are notchless, so they wont be getting caught on anything when you are desperate to clip a piece fast before you pitch. They are big enough to clove hitch. I bought 60 of them to lighten up my rack for big walls.