I have a set of 11' and a set of 10' (with 1' extensions) Carlisles that I use with my hand built wood dory and I'm not embarrassed about it. They are my favorite oars and I highly recommend them.

There are some complaints that these oars are too flexy. I have not experienced this. According to Carlisle the longer oars "have reinforced inner shafts for extra-duty strength". In fact the fiberglass sawyer oars I own and fiberglass cataract oars I have used feel like noodles compared to my 10' and 11' Carlisles.

In a few thousand river miles I have damaged one Carlisle oar in a conflict with the Magnetic Rock on West Water. I was able to straighten that oar and continue using it for quite a while, however it's strength was compromised and it did eventually break. Not a total loss though; I was able to salvage the longer piece and make a 7' oar out of it!

All in all these are a lot more than just "the best bang for your buck", "value" oars. They are a high quality, whitewater worthy product. Unless you 'need' the look of real wood or are the kind of person that has to spend too much money to feel good about yourself Carlises are the best oars you can get.

Have always returned to this oar..always does the job, doesnt break the bank. Have been running this one as a back up...but have a set on my fly rig also.

I got a set of these to outfit an old bucket boat. They worked great for many years and through many holes. On a flip in Hell's canyon we snapped one in half (no sharp edges on the break is a big plus!), but I'm putting his partner to use as a spare for the new rig. Great shafts for the buck,

If what you are looking for are bomber oars that get the job done, here they are. I mean I probably wouldn't use them in a bespoke, handcrafted all wood dory....but the money you save on these makes for a lot of gas and beer to get you to your next river trip. Plus, I don't row well enough to own a bespoke, handcrafted, dory.

Nice priced oar shafts. I like them... I have them on my boats - I don't need fancy oars, just ones that will work and won't break. They do the job.

These are way cheaper and hold up as long as those fancy oars that cost twice as much. So they are heavier and not as stiff, but you won't be as grief stricken if one breaks as you would with carbon or wood oars. There is a reason you see these everywhere.

I've used Carlisles for years, and they are sort of the bargain bin oar. I actually own a set because if I'm worried about breaking oars and it's not super challenging rowing, these are fine, and if I broke one, it's not going to break the bank. They have a ton of flex but not a lot of return. The lack of pop at the end of the stroke makes you lose a lot of energy. If you have a light boat, it doesn't matter as much, but when you've got a really heavy boat, you lose a lot of energy from your stroke, which can really make a difference when you've got room/time for only a few strokes and have to make a big move. They bend and break more easily than do other oars as well. BUT, they are very popular and it is because of the price tag. You get what you pay for with oars, but if you're a beginner, these are a great pair to start with.

I used these commercially on the Colorado. Yes these are fairly heavy but pretty solid. When I saw people bend these is was usually a high force and something dumb like hitting a rock on spare oar etc. As long as the shaft didn't buckle you can usually straighten them out just fine. These flex quite a bit. The handle stays grippy when wet but may be a little big for people with smaller hands. I have not used other oars more than a few hours so I can't compare them but it seems like these are great for anyone on a budget with young arms and joints.

These are cheap and will take a lot of abuse, but are probably the worst feeling oars on the market. Cataract oars aren't all that much more money and are worlds better, without the hassles of wood oars.